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To say that the views on the ride out of the park were good would be an understatement. A partly cloudy sky opened up with a pink sunrise followed by the soft light of Alaska that comes from unpolluted skies and a sun that sits lower in the sky. The golden hour for photography here is longer because of our northern latitude. Shortly after we passed the pink sky and mountain view we shared in the last posting, we came upon a pair of bull moose who were checking out one another. Above we see them framed against the spectacular Denali backdrop. It is September, the beginning of rutting season and the males are out and about. Here is another view from near the same spot. Note how bright white the moose's antlers appear. This is no trick of Photoshop. The antlers appear that bright when they reflected the morning sun. Perhaps, to make them easier to follow? Here they are again, a few minutes later, the same two bulls with Denali's mountains in the background. . The moose is the largest and heaviest member of the deer family. The name is borrowed from native American languages of the Algonquian and Eastern Abenaki. Some linguists believe the name is derived from moosu, a term that means "he strips off," likely a reference to the male's practice of stripping off the fur their antlers in the fall as rutting season approaches. Here is a close up of one of these imposing 'deer.' Another can be seen below approaching. Note the vegetation caught in his antlers. The slow ride out stopped to see Mt. Denali again, still visible under mostly clear skies. After the stop, we started seeing grizzlies on and near the road. The one below was near a short overpass and was accompanied by the cub you see below. These bears are big, as you would expect from a grizzly. But, we are told and will confirm for ourselves later in the trip, not big for grizzlies. The food sources are limited here. There are no salmon runs in this central part of Alaska to support a larger body size. The lone road through Denali makes a good path for the bears. Here, two we saw earlier on the hillside beside the road are walking by one of the Denali buses. As you can see below, everyone including the bus driver is trying to capture an image of the bears. With all this activity taking place near the Park road, we did not see a female moose until near the end of the trip, a good 30 miles distant from the two males we saw earlier in the morning. Here she is in the shrubs and tall grass. Happy to graze undisturbed. ~ ~ ~ ~
All photos and text are copyright Clinton Richardson. If you like these posts, please tell your friends about the Venture Moola blog at Readjanus.com. More of our images can be found on our companion website at trekpic.com. Feel free to share this blog with your friends. The more readers the better. Click here if you would like to get an email notification when we release new entries. Or, click in the side column to follow us on Facebook or Twitter. Back at Denali National Park, we have reached the end of the only road that leads into this 6.0 million acre park. At 20 miles an hour with frequent stops, it takes more than five hours but with the blessing of clear weather, we not only get a rare view of Mt. Denali, we also see bear and caribou. At the end of the road, we find ourselves in Kantishna and a lodge run by one the Alaskan Indian corporations. Two nights there breaks up the scenic drives in and out of the park and gives us time to hike a variety of trails and to explore nearby Wonder Lake. As you can see below, the accommodations are more modern than the outbuilding above would suggest. The structure above is from the early 1900s. The weather was overcast and cool for a hike near Wonder Lake the next morning. There were caribou near the lake and birds on and around the water. And, there was quiet. No traffic noise. No jet trails in the sky. The only sounds came from the wildlife and other travelers. The later were few in number. Wonder Lake is sometimes called the Crown Jewel of Denali National Park. It is a kettle lake, or one formed by a glacier when it receded. It is large by kettle lake standards, though, reaching depths of up to 250 feet with a length of three miles.
Our stay in Kantishna gave us a second chance to see the Northern Lights, though few witnessed it. It was cold and windy that night and the lights were not expected until long after midnight. The next morning's right back along only Park road was leaving before sunrise and it would provide its own stunning sky views. Here is what greeted us on the ride back. The air was cool and clear as we boarded our bus. A short way up the road and we were riding through a long valley as a the sun rose. The sky turned pink, framing the Denali mountains in a soft glow. As the sun rose higher in the sky and we made our way further along the gravel Park road, we spied our first bull moose. Their horns were recently shed of their summer fur but still bearing some remnants of the shedding. Look closely below and you will see the last fur trailing off the back of his rack. When we arrived the two bulls were eyeing one another but staying at a respectful distance. We stayed for awhile to watch their interaction develop. More about this next week. ~ ~ ~ ~
All photos and text are copyright Clinton Richardson. If you like these posts, please tell your friends about the Venture Moola blog at Readjanus.com. More of our images can be found on our companion website at trekpic.com. Feel free to share this blog with your friends. The more readers the better. Click here if you would like to get an email notification when we release new entries. Or, click in the side column to follow us on Facebook or Twitter. Our trip got off to a fast start after our initial group meeting in Fairbanks with the outfitter. It was a simple question that got us going. Would we get a chance to see the Aurora Borealis? It turns out everyone in Alaska is a fan of the Northern Lights and there are several resources online to tell you how likely they are to appear on any given night. It was a clear evening with a positive forecast so our guide offered to drive us north of Fairbanks into the woods to see the Northern Lights and the Alaska Pipeline. As a Fairbanks native whose husband worked for the pipeline company, she knew a good place to see the Pipeline and some good locales for viewing the night sky. After dinner we headed out. Our first stop was the Pipeline. It got cool as the day ended but not something a sweater and light coat could not handle. It has been unseasonably hot in Alaska again this year pushing back and shortening the cold season. For years now, global warming has been warming and reducing the permafrost that covers most of the State. The consequences of a melting permafrost are a major concern for Alaska's 740,000 residents. As we took in the enormity of the Pipeline. Forty-eight inches wide and more than 800 miles long, the Pipeline carries millions of gallons of oil each year from Prudhoe Bay in the north to Valdez, Alaska, on the southern coast. At it's peak, the Pipeline moved 2.1 million gallons of oil per day, down to less than 500 thousand gallons in 2018. Once the oil stops flowing, it will be removed and many jobs will be lost, an economic reality many Alaskan's fear. As night arrived, we piled into our van and drove further north of Fairbanks, leaving a paved highway and driving into the woods on gravel roads. We headed toward a cell tower first, interrupting who-knows-what in a sedan parked along the side of the road. The vista was not clear from that point, so our guide drove further until we came upon this clear stretch in the road. Even though it was still relatively soon after sunset, the Northern Lights were on full display. You can see it above but what you cannot see is its movement or it stretching behind the top of the photograph all the way to the opposite horizon. It filled the sky with color and movement. As the sky darkened, the lights seemed to get brighter or, at least, more distinct. We did not hear any sound from the Borealis. Many natives claim to be able to hear as well as see the Northern Lights, a claim disputed by many. Recent research, however, seems to validate the claims of those who hear sounds with the Aurora Borealis by noting clapping sounds generated as low as 70 feet above ground level. Since the constant and unpredictable movement of the lights as much as the lights and colors themselves are what make this phenomena so interesting to experience, we end this posting with five consecutive shots of the Northern Lights taken in quick succession that evening. Scroll through them quickly to get an idea of just how much these celestial lights dance through the sky. Next week, back to Denali National Park, a Wonder Lake, pink morning, big antlers, rutting moose and more. ~ ~ ~ ~
The first image above is entitled Baby Ravens and sits outside a museum in Fairbanks. All photos and text are copyright Clinton Richardson. If you like these posts, please tell your friends about the Venture Moola blog at Readjanus.com. More of our images can be found on our companion website at trekpic.com. Feel free to share this blog with your friends. The more readers the better. Click here if you would like to get a weekly email that notifies you when we release new entries. Or, click in the side column to follow us on Facebook or Twitter. He was lying face down in the snow, having collapsed right in front of me as we made our way up Mt. Denali. "Kurt!" *** No response. I called for help as I rolled him over. His eyes were shut and there was ice on his beard. I shook him. He was unresponsive. Others rushed over. I shook him again. No response. And then he started mumbling in a low voice. A heart attack thousands of feet up the tallest mountain in North America. We were miles away from medical help and my climbing partner was fighting for his life! We stabilized him as best we could, radioed base camp and started making our way back down the mountain with Kurt. It was snowing and windy the whole way back. When we got there a few days later, a medical team was waiting for us. At this point in our driver's story, we were several hours into our ride into Denali National Park down the single one-lane gravel road that travels 92 miles into the park. At six million acres, Denali is one of the largest national parks in the system and one of the most remote. Established as the nation's first wildlife park, Denali protects the habitat of grizzly bears, moose, caribou, porcupines, Dall sheep and many other animals. It is an area of vast plains and massive mountains. It is fall when we arrive and the colors in the trees are mostly greens and bright yellows. But there is much more color inspired by the cooling temperatures. The ground is a patchwork of reds and purples and yellows and whites all on a background of brown and heather. Berries account for much of this ground cover and for much of the diet of the grizzlies who are now active accumulating the weight they will need to survive hibernation. You can see three of them above, one female and two cubs, foraging on blueberries and other plants. The image below captures one of the cubs in a closer view. Our driver, a park guide and mountain climber, picks up where his story left off. He is telling about his first climb of Mt. Denali ten years earlier when he was in his early twenties. It turns out we were right in our diagnosis. Kurt had suffered and fortunately survived a heart attack on the mountain. It turns out he had a history of heart disease in his family but had left that off his application form. After getting care for Kurt at base camp, the rest of us started climbing back up toward Denali's summit ridge. At 20,310 feet, Denali is the tallest mountain in North America. To lighten our load, the trip leader reassigned me to another tent for the rest of the hike which was a bit uncomfortable. I was now sharing a tent with a pair of newlyweds. Mind you our driver was interesting and very engaged with his story but this was hours into the trip and he was now telling about his first trip up the mountain after telling us about his second trip up which he had just completed weeks earlier. A proud accomplishment to be sure and an interesting insight into the world of mountain climbing. But maybe, just maybe, this would have played better as a feature length film instead of a multi-season series. He did intersperse a good bit of background information about the mountains and wildlife we were seeing. And we would stop whenever someone spotted wildlife along the road. These bears in a river bed slowed us down for awhile. We first spotted them while on a stop but we likely would not have missed them if we were driving. The speed limit on our gravel road was just 20 miles per hour. These were actually the first bears we spotted on our trip. So, they were reason to celebrate. Grizzlies in the wild. We had seen some in Yellowstone but, still, it is a treat to see them. Our second sighting came shortly after. This time it was a mother and two cubs farther away walking up a mountain. The total ride into our lodge took between five and six hours. The bus is the only way into or out of the park unless you rent a small plane and land on a runway near the lodge. This is by design and intended to protect the wildlife. Camping is allowed throughout the park on a limited basis but we passed miles of land that were off limits even to camping and hiking. As we neared the end of our trip into the Park, we spotted caribou in the distance. Their great antlers glistened in the low sun of the late afternoon. They have just shed the fur off their antlers. If you look closely below you can see some of the remnant fur still clinging to the top of the antlers. ~ ~ ~ ~
*** Note: Names are changed in the mountain climbing story. All photos and text are copyright Clinton Richardson. If you like these posts, please tell your friends about the Venture Moola blog at Readjanus.com. More of our images can be found on our companion website at trekpic.com. Feel free to share this blog with your friends. The more readers the better. Click here if you would like to get a weekly email that notifies you when we release new entries. Or, click in the side column to follow us on Facebook or Twitter. We rode in a boat that looked like the Minnow from Gilligan's Island on our journey back from Fox Island. The ride launched the second half of our journey, taking us back to Seward where we caught a bus to Anchorage by way of Turnagain Arm and a short stop at the entrance of Kenai Fjords National Park. The "three hour tour" refrain from the Gilligan's Island theme song played in my mind during our short ride on the "Minnow." Threatening skies provided an interesting back drop to our trip but the seas remained manageable and we arrived in Seward shortly after we left without incident. Part two of our Alaskan Safari was going to be all about bears and logistics. The next morning we would travel from Anchorage by commercial jet to King Salmon on the Alaskan coast. This tiny town would be our home base for several days as we road float planes back and forth into the Katmai peninsula along the southern coast of the main part of Alaska.
Katmai and the surrounding areas, you see, are famous for a natural phenomena involving grizzly bears. Normally solitary by nature, ranging across miles of territory alone or in small family groups of mother and cubs, grizzlies nonetheless congregate together during salmon spawning season to fish and bulk up for winter hibernation. It's the salmon that bring them, massive numbers race into the streams of Alaska to spawn and die. The bears, and other wildlife, gather at the streams to catch them. Katmai provides the perfect environment for people to watch these bears as gather to catch salmon. The male bears in Katmai reach nine feet in height when standing and the females, while smaller, are also massive. The spectacle at Katmai includes bears catching salmon as they leap up the falls. You may have even seen an image not unlike the one below in a nature magazine. We are standing on a raised platform next to the falls, not 100 feet from the bear. Exciting to witness, to be sure, but this was not the highlight of our trip to Alaska's coast. Our guide, who has studied grizzlies for two decades and observed them on foot in the field many times, took us outside Katmai National Park to walk among a group of grizzlies. On foot, walking single file through high grass and along a lake shoreline, we spent the morning observing and photographing the 29 grizzlies who were feeding, resting, playing and interacting in the grass, the water and along the shoreline. The three below were on shore next to the grass less than 20 yards from us when I snapped this image. They seemed every bit as curious about us as we were about them. So, stay with us as we journey into the wild center of Alaska and then journey down to the coast. Join us in Denali National Park and along the Alaskan Railway to Talkeetna and Girdwood. Witness the northern lights with us north of Fairbanks and the belugas in Turnagain Arm. Visit Fox Island on the edge of the Kenai Fjords National Park. And, of course, stay for the finale as we become veteran Alaskan float plane commuters and visit the great grizzlies of Katmai National Park and walk among them in coastal Alaska. * Photo note: While most of the images in these posts are taken with a Sony full frame camera, the first two images above (along with the first and last three images from last weeks post) were taken with an iPhone. The first image above is a composite of four images stitched together in post processing. ~ ~ ~ ~
All photos and text are copyright Clinton Richardson. If you like these posts, please tell your friends about the Venture Moola blog at Readjanus.com. More of our images can be found on our companion website at trekpic.com. Feel free to share this blog with your friends. The more readers the better. Click here if you would like to get a weekly email that notifies you when we release new entries. Or, click in the side column to follow us on Facebook or Twitter. A couple of times we got fogged in and had to wait for the weather to improve before we could board our float plane to head out of King Salmon on Alaska's southwestern coast. The fog I am in now, however, is of a different nature. It is in my head. A part of the jet lag that comes from an all-day air trip through four time zones. Not a terminal ‘brain cloud’ like the one that enveloped the Tom Hanks character in the movie Joe Verses the Volcano, but enough to slow me down the day after our return from two weeks in the Alaskan interior. As my mother would say, “this too will pass.” In the weeks that follow, we will revisit parts of that trip and explore what it means to travel with a group in one of the wildest parts of North America. Of course, there were great moments like busing in to the middle of Denali National Park, a 6 million acre expanse of protected land, on the 92 mile gravel road that serves as the park’s only paved access. We joined the 30% Club on the journey in and out, seeing the largest mountain in North America. You only see this when the weather is clear which also makes it possible to capture iconic views of moose, caribou, grizzly bears and porcupines during the drives. It was also interesting to ride the Alaskan Railway south from Denali to Talkeetna, the entry point for climbers preparing for Mt. Denali and film site for the classic television series Northern Exposures. A later drive and a stop along the great Turnagain Arm waterway, first seen by European eyes by the discoverer Captain James Cook in the 1700s and site (not on the tour) of the Turnagain Arm Pit Barbeque, introduced us to beluga whales in the wild. A class four bus trip speeding down a pothole filled gravel road through high grass to a class one rafting trip among glaciers highlighted our subsequent visit to Girdwood. Blaring rock music and a dancing, head shaking Goldie Hawn look-alike standing in the front of the bus confirmed we were ‘not in Kansas anymore.’ A visit to a local Cajun restaurant there by way of local shuttle buses also provided a second opportunity to see the Northern Lights. To round out the first week, we headed south from Girdwood to the Alaskan Kenai Peninsula, driving on Moose Pass through the Kenai Mountains and past the Turnagain Arm National Heritage Area to Seward. From there it was on a boat to Fox Island, a remote place that would serve as our launching pad by water into the Kenai Fjords National Park. We will share more in our next posting about our itinerary and the second week into coastal Alaska to see grizzlies in the wild. For now, we leave you with this image of Alaskans and visitors watching belugas in the Turnagain Arm waterway, in the northwestern part of the Gulf of Alaska. ~ ~ ~ ~
All photos and text are copyright Clinton Richardson. If you like these posts, please tell your friends about the Venture Moola blog at Readjanus.com. More of our images can be found on our companion website at trekpic.com. Feel free to share this blog with your friends. The more readers the better. Click here if you would like to get a weekly email that notifies you when we release new entries. Or, click in the side column to follow us on Facebook or Twitter. That's right. We are back from two weeks in the heart and along the coast of Alaska. Visiting three national parks and seeing wild grizzlies and moose and more. Beginning next Thursday and continuing on for several weeks we will be reviewing our trip and sharing some amazing images. Things you have heard about and somethings you maybe were not aware of. From Denali Park's 6.0 million untouched acres to Alaskan Railways to coastal bears who can stand nine feet tall and grab moving salmon out of a stream. Beluga whales, caribou and moose with full antlers squaring off for mating rights will fill the coming posts. Float planes, class 4 bus rides, visits to unique locales and much more is coming. I hope these first few images will spark your interest. Don't miss the fun. You will see and experience things you have not seen or experienced before. And, if we succeed, you will also get to see how 14 strangers become friends as they travel together through a wild and foreign land. If you followed our Safari Series you know what to expect. If you did not, join us now and check back to last September to follow our eye-popping trip to Kenya. Here are a few entries to introduce you to our blog:
Check back next week as we get started. If you don't get email reminders for the Venture Moola blog, try clicking on this link to sign up -Click to Follow Venture Moola! I hope to see you next week. _ _ _ _ _
All photos and text are copyright Clinton Richardson. The images are from the author's Safari Collection at Trekpic.com. If you like these posts, please tell your friends about the Venture Moola blog at Readjanus.com. Want to plan your own safari? If so, feel free to check out the outfitter we used at Porini.com. And, feel free to share this blog. The more readers the better. Click here if you would like to get a weekly email that notifies you when we release new entries. Or, click in the side column to follow us on Facebook or Twitter. |
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